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2009-09-26 [Sat]

セドナ旅行5日目 Gg[ubN}[N

さて実は昨日から宿を移り、市街地からかなり離れたエンチャントメント・リゾートというホテルへ移動している。ボイントン・キャニオンという渓谷の中にある広大な敷地をゆったりと使って作られたリゾートである。建てられたのは1987年とけっこう古いが、2006年にリノベーションされていて、古さはそれほど感じられない。無線LANも完備されてるし。

なんでもここボイントン・キャニオンは「ボルテックス」のある聖地だとかで、建設時には反対運動も巻き起こったとか。ホテルのマークが様式的なインディアンの横顔だったり、テントを模した瞑想ルームがあったりと、ネイティヴ・アメリカンと癒しのイメージがうまく使われたリゾートだ。

土地を奪っておいてイメージだけを勝手に使うとは盗人猛々しいという気もしないでもないが、たいへん居心地がいいリゾートなのは確かだ。ここにいると、まあ、難しいことはともかく、気持ちいいんだからいいじゃん、という気分になってくる。

敷地内には客室コテージが点在、あまりにも敷地が広いので荷物を運ぶためゴルフカートのような車が走り回っている。まったくの山の中なので、夜は天の川がくっきり見えるくらい星がきれいだし、敷地内では鹿や野兎が跳ねているのも見た。まさにおとといは兎、きのうは鹿……ってやつだ(わからないひとはいいです)。

さて、実は昨日の午前中はカセドラル・ロックという岩山に登るはずだったのだけれども、10日ほど前に大雨による土砂崩れが起きてまだ復旧が終わっていないとのことなので中止。せっかく歩く気満々でセドナにやってきたというのに、これでは私のやる気が収まらない。そこで今日は、ホテルのすぐそばにあるボイントン・キャニオン・トレイルという約4キロのトレッキングコースを歩いてみることにした。雲ひとつないアリゾナでは、日中は暑くて死ねるので、出発は早朝。

送信者 sedona

写真はホテルからトレイルの入口。カードキーで門があく。右端の岩は2日目にも見たカチーナ・ドール。2日目に行ったところとは岩を挟んでちょうど反対側にいることになる。

送信者 sedona

トレイルから見たホテル全景。

見上げれば赤い岩山、近くには緑の木々、物音に振り向けば鹿の親子が道を横切っていたりする。日本に比べれて乾燥しているので、汗もそれほど出ない、歩いていてたいへん気持ちのいいコースである。

送信者 sedona

しかしわれわれときたら、筋金入りのインドア派であり、日本ではほとんど体を動かしたこともない自他共に認める運動不足。道は比較的平坦なのだけど、行けども行けども終わりが見えず、「ここが俺たちにとっての終点だ」と宣言して途中で引き返そうかと思ったこと数回。山道からさっと見晴らしのいい場所に出て、ついに"END OF TRAIL"の看板に出会ったときのわれわれの喜びときたらもう言葉では言い表せないほどであった。

送信者 sedona

往復約8キロの道のりを4時間弱で歩ききり(遅いね、いくらなんでも)、勇躍ホテルに帰り着いたわれわれを待っていたのは、WATSUである。

 

WATSUとは何か。WATER + SHIATSUの合成語で、ストレッチと指圧を組み合わせた水の中で行うマッサージの一種だそうである。日本人ではとても思いつかない略し方からもわかるように、開発者はアメリカ人のハロルド・ダルという人物で、すでに30年近くの歴史があるとか。私もよく知らないのだが、妻がここのスパは有名なのでぜひここで施術を受けたいというので、「自分だけずるいずるい」と駄々をこね、私も受けることにした。

水着を着て予約した時間にスパに行くと、体格のいい男性セラピストが迎えてくれた。スパの屋上にある小さなプールに入り、両足に重しをつけ、シリコーンの耳栓を入れる。後ろから抱えられるような体勢で、プールの中でぐるぐると引き回されるのである。体の力を抜き、ふわふわと海藻のように漂うのは確かに気持ちがよくて、目を開けると青空と赤土の山が目に入ってきてたいへん爽快。ときどき手足を曲げ伸ばししてくれたり、背中や頭のツボを押してくれるのだが、指圧というより触ってるだけという感じで、これは日本人的にはとてもマッサージとは思えない。

ただ、ぐるんぐるんとプールの中を回されるので、これがだんだんと気持ち悪くなってくるのだ。抱きかかえられて背筋を曲げた体勢になったときなど、胃を圧迫されて思わず戻しそうな気分になるのだが、ここはプールの中、そんなことをしたら大惨事である。プールは使えなくなりあとの客にも影響が出る、と思うとぐっと我慢するほかない。

1時間のセッションの後半はひたすら気持ち悪く、WATSUはもう二度とやらない、と心に誓ったのだけれども、いくらぐるぐると回しても口と鼻は常に水上に出してくれていたその技術はさすがとしかいいようがない。

物心ついて以来、男性とこれほど密着して接したのは初めてだということも付け加えておきたい。

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