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2009-09-22 [Tue] セドナ旅行記

セドナ旅行1日目 Gg[ubN}[N

妻がセドナに行きたいと言い出したときにはびっくりした。

セドナといえば、常識的に考えて太陽系外縁にある準惑星。そんな冥王星より遠いところへ何をしに! と驚いたのだけど、妻が行きたいのはアメリカのアリゾナ州にある別のセドナだという。ほえ、そんなところにもセドナがあるんですか。

といわれてもそっちのセドナのことなど全然知らないので、計画は全部妻に任せっきりで行ってみることにした。私にとって、米国本土初上陸(トランジットを除く)である。

 

アリゾナの州都フェニックスから北に192キロのところにある小さな町、それがセドナである。人口10900人ほどの小さな町なのだけれど、なんと年間40万人もの観光客が訪れる一大観光都市なのだという。

赤土でできたメサが四方に美しくそびえていて、標高が高いせいでアリゾナといってもすごしやすい気温の日が多く、雨も少なく気候がおだやか。建築物の色や高さも厳しく規制されていて、赤土色と緑色を基調に、自然に溶け込むよう配慮されている(黄色いマクドナルドのマークもセドナではターコイズ色である)。全米からリタイアした老人たちが移住してくるのでこの町の住人の平均年齢は50歳以上。また、シャロン・ストーンやマドンナなど金持ちたちが別荘を構える高級保養地でもある。

さらに、セドナには、なんでも大地のエネルギーが噴き出しているボルテックスなるものがたくさん集まっているという。大地のエネルギーと言われてもなんのことやらさっぱりわからないのだが、どうもサイキックな人たちが1980年ごろに言い出したのが始まりらしい。ちなみに科学的にはまったく根拠がないという。なんでもそれ以来セドナはニューエイジの聖地になっていて、チャネラーとかヒーラーとかいった人々が多数集まってきて、街中にはクリスタルの店やサイキック・リーディングの店がいくつもあるし、日本からも「自分探し」やらなんやらの女性が数多く訪れるという。ついでにフェニックスからセドナあたりにかけては全米きってのUFO目撃多発地帯でもある(フェニックス・ライト事件は有名)。なんともあやしげな町ではないですか。

 

また、実はアリゾナというところは天文・地学好きにはけっこう見所の多い土地である。

まずセドナ周辺には、鉄分を多く含んだ赤土でできた、メサやビュートという台形の地形が多い。西部劇によく出てくるようなあの奇妙な形の岩山である。そして、1500mの高地にあるセドナは空気が澄んでいて、星空がたいへん美しく見える。セドナからさらに北にあるフラッグスタッフという町は、冥王星を発見したローウェル天文台があることでも有名。北西部に行けばグランドキャニオンがあるし、北東部にはアリゾナ大隕石孔、そして化石化した三畳紀の木がごろごろ転がる「化石の森」といわれる国立公園もある。

 

というわけで、成田から飛行機をサンフランシスコで乗り継いでアリゾナの州都フェニックスへ。そこからサボテンの点在する荒野を車で北に走ること2時間。われわれはセドナにやってきた。

送信者 sedona

大きな地図で見る

セドナについたのは夕方だったので、とりあえず夕飯。アリゾナは地理的にメキシコに片足突っ込んでるような場所なのでメキシコっぽい料理が多い。「カウボーイクラブ」という安直な名前のレストランで、サボテンのフライなるものを食べた。フィッシュアンドチップスのようにモルトビネガーをつけて食べると、ビールのおつまみに合いそうな味でわりと美味である。

ホテルのあるアップタウンは、みやげ物屋や飲食店が軒を連ねる日本で言えば温泉街みたいな場所。でもみやげ物屋は6時ごろには閉まるし、レストランもたいがい9時で閉まってしまう。そして日本人の若い女性以外は、圧倒的に老人が多い(日本人男性はほとんど見かけない)。日本ではセドナは女子好みのスピリチュアルなスポットという扱いだけど、アメリカでは老人向けの保養地的な場所みたいだ。

どこのみやげ物屋にも並んでいるのは、ネイティヴ・アメリカンが作るカチーナという人形と、キングの小説で有名な蜘蛛の巣状のドリームキャッチャー。カチーナというのは、ホピ族の信仰する精霊をかたどった人形で、10ドルくらいの量産品は手足を接着剤でくっつけてあるのだけれど、一本の木から彫った芸術性の高いものでは1000ドル以上する。夜中に動き出しそうな異星人じみた異形の姿には心引かれるものがあったのだけれど、持って帰る途中で確実に壊れそうだしあまりに高いので購入は断念(あとで安物を買ったけど、案の定家に着いたら壊れていた)。

送信者 sedona
写真はセドナ市街の夕景。

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