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2010-09-13 [Mon]

スターリンのバースデーケーキ Gg[ubN}[N

 ラトヴィアの首都リーガという街は、中世を思わせる旧市街やアールヌーヴォー建築で有名だけど、ソヴィエト時代の残滓もあちこちに残っています。その中の一つが、旧市街から駅を挟んで反対側にひときわ高くそびえ立っていて、街のどこからでも見える高層ビル、ラトヴィア科学アカデミー。戦後の1953〜56年に建てられた高さ108メートルのビルで、2004年まではラトヴィアで最も高いビルだったとのこと。

 なんとも威圧感のあるこのビルは、スターリン・クラシック様式といって、共産主義を賛美することを目的にひときわ重厚に作られたもの。モスクワには建築家レフ・ルドネフが設計した同じ様式の高層建築がモスクワ大学本館ホテル・ウクライナなど7棟あって「セブン・シスターズ」と呼ばれております。

 リーガの科学アカデミーも、設計者は同じレフ・ルドネフで、いわばセブン・シスターズの従姉妹のような存在です。「ソヴィエトの労働者や農民からラトヴィアの人々への贈り物」という名目で建てられたもので、地元の人はこれを「スターリンのバースデーケーキ」あるいは「クレムリン」というあだ名で呼んでいるとか。

 現在もビルの中はオフィスとして使われているのですが、17階のバルコニーが展望台になっていて上ることができます。がらんとしたエントランスホールの左側に受付があるので、観光客はそこで入場料を払いエレベータで上ります。

 エントランスの照明は、電気代節約のためかひとつしかついていない。

 威圧的な外観に反して、中は意外に質素。階段を上り、この扉の向こうが展望台なのだけど、吹きさらしで風も強いし寒いのなんの(リーガでは9月上旬でも10度以下まで下がります)。

   カマボコ型の建物は、ツェッペリン型飛行船の格納庫を移築して作られた巨大な中央市場。駅と線路を挟んで、その向こうの尖塔がある場所が旧市街。左を流れるのがダウガヴァ川。

 川のこちら側には廃墟と化したソ連時代の建物。そして川向こうには韓国企業LGの高層ビル。なぜ廃墟が多いかというと、ソ連から独立したときに、国有化されていた不動産を元の持ち主に返還したのだけど、返されても改装費用が出せなかったり、そもそも所有者が見つからず宙に浮いている建物が多かったりするからとのこと。

 川の向こうにそびえるのはヨーロッパで3番目に高いテレビ塔。これもソ連時代に建設されたもの。

 泊まったホテルもソヴィエト時代の1956年建築。外観は立派だけど。

 中は薄暗くて怖いよ。

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