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2010-09-19 [Sun]

各国の旧KGB本部 Gg[ubN}[N

 リトアニア、ラトヴィア、エストニアはいずれも旧ソ連の国なので、20年前に独立するまではどの国にもKGBがあり国民を監視していました。

 タリンのヴィル・ホテルやリーガのレヴァル・ホテル・ラトヴィアなど、ソ連時代に外国人の宿泊のために建てられた高層ホテルでは、かつては全室が当局により盗聴されていたとのこと(もちろん現在ではそんなことはありません)。

 そしてヴィリニュス、リーガ、タリンとどの首都にも、かつてKGB本部として使われていた建物が今も残されています。

 エストニアの首都タリンの旧KGB本部は旧市街の中にあってけっこう趣きのある建物(右側の建物)ですが、扉は今なお閉ざされたまま。レストランや土産物屋の多い華やかな旧市街の中でも静かな一角です。ここが旧KGB本部であることを示すのは目立たない銘板だけ。おそらく記念館として公開するには、まだソ連時代の記憶が生々しすぎるのでしょう。

 ラトヴィアの首都リーガでは、新市街にあるユーゲントシュティール様式の通称「角の家」がKGB本部として使われていました。バスの中から見ただけで写真は撮れなかったので、frickrで見つけた写真を一枚。入り口の脇には銘板がありますが、建物は修復もされずぼろぼろのまま。ここも公開はされていません。

 唯一、内部まで公開されているのはリトアニアの首都ヴィリニュスにある旧KGB本部。旧市街の少し外側、ゲディミノ大通りに面した建物です。

 銘板には各国語でこの場所の説明が書かれ、外壁にはここで命を落とした人々の名前が彫られています。

 入り口の前にある慰霊碑。

 建物の内部は、現在は「虐殺犠牲者博物館」として公開されています。通称KGB博物館。

 ソ連占領下では「人民の敵」とされた数十万人のリトアニア人がシベリアに強制連行され、1940年から51年までの間にリトアニアは人口の約3分の1を失ったとのこと。

 博物館の地下では実際に政治犯を収容していた牢獄や、床に冷たい水を張り狭い台の上に囚人を立たせたという拷問室、壁にくっきりと弾痕の穿たれた処刑室(ここで千人以上が処刑されたという)などを見学できます。

 ここは撮影禁止だったので写真はなし。以前は撮影できたらしく、ネット上には内部の写真もありますが、こればかりは実際にその場を訪れないと、ぞっとするような地下室の暗さやかび臭いにおい、淀んだ空気は体験できません。リトアニアを訪れるなら絶対訪れてほしいのがここ。ただし月曜と火曜は休館なのでスケジュールには気をつけること(私は水曜の朝出発の予定を遅らせてここを見に来ました)。

 地下室から中庭に出ると明るさにほっとするのだけれど、そこにはソ連時代の苦難を今の子供たちが描いた絵がたくさん展示されていて、なんというか憎しみの再生産にちょっと暗澹たる気分になったり。

 というわけで、今回回った三都市すべてで旧KGB本部を見たのだけれど、リトアニアでは博物館として整備されており、ラトヴィアでは新市街の中心部にあるにも関わらず朽ちるに任され、エストニアでも銘板をつけただけで放置。

 国内にはロシア人も数多く住んでいるし、ある年齢以上の人にとってはソ連時代の記憶はまだ生々しい。ラトヴィア、エストニアではKGB本部を観光化するにはまだ抵抗が強いということなんでしょうか。ソ連時代の負の遺産に対する距離の取り方は三国それぞれです。

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