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2010-09-18 [Sat]

リトアニアの十字架の丘 Gg[ubN}[N

 リトアニアの首都ヴィリニュスから車で3時間、シャウレイという町の郊外約12キロというたいへん交通の不便な場所に、奇妙な名所があります。

 周囲は人家も何もないまったくの平原。そこにほんのちょっと突き出た丘というか塚のような場所に、無数の十字架が立てられているのです。

 駐車場の方から見た風景。

 その数は少なくとも10万以上。1990年には推定5万5千本だったそうなので、その後20年でほぼ倍に増えたことになります。

 なぜこんな不便な場所にあるのか。なぜここじゃなきゃいけないのか。まったくわからない。思えばたいへん奇妙な場所なのだけれど、この丘は、ロシア、ポーランド、ナチスドイツ、ソ連と、常に周辺の大国に翻弄され多くの犠牲者を出してきたリトアニア人の聖地であり祈りの場所なのだそうです。

 ソ連時代にはここの十字架は少なくとも3回にわたってブルドーザーでなぎ倒され、焼き払われたとのことですが、その都度リトアニア国民は新たな十字架が立ててきたのだといいます。手前に見える十字架に刻まれた日付はどれも最近のものだったので、この丘の十字架は今でも増え続けているようです。

 10万の十字架があるということは、少なくとも10万の人間の思いの込められているわけで、実際にこの場所に行ってみて感じるのは、「聖地」の崇高さではなく、むしろ神社の大量の絵馬とか恐山の風車の群れにも似たおどろおどろしさというか、息が詰まるような圧迫感です。

 この場所はリトアニア人のカトリック信仰の深さを示すもの……などと言われることもありますが、教会でも何でもないただの丘に十字架を立てて祈るというのは、考えてみれば全然キリスト教的ではありません。単なる丘におびただしい十字架が無秩序に積み重なっているという混沌も、ヨーロッパというよりはむしろアジア的な光景です。

 1831年のロシアに対する蜂起の後、処刑や流刑にされた人々のために最初の十字架が立てられた――と、ガイドブックなどには書いてあるのですが、私はあえてその説には異議を唱えたいと思います。その説では、なぜこの場所じゃなきゃいけないのか、という疑問に答えられていないからです。

 フェリックス・ギラン『ロシアの神話』(青土社)は、原書刊行が1935年と古い本ながら、リトアニアの神話を扱った日本ではほぼ唯一の本。この本には、1935年以前の段階ですでに100以上の十字架に覆われた丘の写真が載っています。

 ギランによれば、この丘は、もともと異教の神にいけにえを捧げる聖地であり、丘を一面に覆い尽くした十字架は、そうした古い神(キリスト教から見れば、つまり悪魔だ)を祓うために、周囲の農民たちが立てたものだそうです。リトアニアにはこうした土墳がいくつもあり、十字架を立てることで「悪魔祓い」が行われた土墳もほかにもあるとのこと。

 つまりそもそもここに十字架が立てられたのはもともとリトアニアにあった古い信仰をキリスト教で上書きするためだというのです。そうしたもともとの意味がいつしか忘れ去られ、苦難の歴史とともにキリスト教の祈りの聖地へと変わっていったのでしょう。リトアニアは、1387年にヨーロッパでもっとも遅くキリスト教化された国ながら、今は敬虔なカトリック信者が多い国。そう考えるとこの説はなかなか説得力があります。

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